First you remove the sump plug. Be careful if the oil is hot, it can giveyou pretty nasty burns. Obviously make sure you have something to catch it in and dispose of it environmentally correctly.
Next loosen off the oil filters. Loosen them enough so that they are hand tight, but don't loosen them too far that the o-ring isn't sealing at the top. At this point I would usually take a sharp screwdriver and pierce a hole in the bottom of the filter.
The oil has been draining while we're being playing with the filters so you can now put the sump plug back in. Don't worry if the oil is still trickling out, the tiny amount that you would get out of it isn't worth waiting for. Fit and tighten following my Sump plug rule.
Wipe away any oil. You want to be able to see if the plug is leaking. Remove the filters, I'm using a rag because it is a bit hot. I mentioned that I usually punch a hole in the bottom of the filters. This is the reason why. The only problem is it obviously destroys the filter. If for some reason you have the wrong filters the truck is now out of action. If you don't punch a hole in it to get yourself out of trouble you can refit this old filter.
Now that the filters are off clean and inspect the filter housing and make sure the thread is tight in the housing. The reason this step is so important is because sometimes the old o-ring gets stuck on the housing.
Lubricate the o-ring with clean engine oil or grease and fit the new filter. Only tightened by hand don't use a filter strap. Tighten it 3/4 of a turn from when the o-ring contacts the filter base. Most filters have this instruction written on them.
I don't pre fill oil filters unless I've done a rebuild my theory is there is enough residual oil in the engine for that first couple seconds until it gets oil pressure. replacing fuel filters is pretty much the same as replacing oil filters. Once again make sure you're cleaning and inspecting the sealing surface.
The main difference is you pre fill the fuel filters. The reason you pre fill your fuel filters is so that you don't have to bleed the fuel system. Series 60 are especially hard to bleed because they don't have a hand primer. I'll link to a YouTube video from adept ape on the correct way to pre-fill a filter
Don't forget to lubricate the o-ring and fit the fuel filter the same way you did the oil filter by hand and only tighten it 3/4 to one full turn. Some fuel filters might gravity feed from the tank therefore the fuel will constantly flow so you might want to have the new filter ready to go when you remove the old filter.
Fill with engine oil, pour it, pump it. It don't matter most series sixties take 36 liters of oil but check your dipstick. Start your engine but watch the oil pressure gauge it's very important that you get oil pressure. If you don't see oil pressure after four or five seconds switch it off and go investigate.
After you've had it running inspect your filters and plug for leaks after it's been sitting for a while and the engine oils had a chance to drain back into the Sump Recheck your dipstick oil level.
If you somehow manage to screw it up and get air in the system it will need to be bled. You'll know if you have air in the system because the truck won't start. First of all what you can try is remove your fuel filters again fill them right up with fuel refit them and try and start your engine. Make sure you don't crank your engine on the starter motor for more than 12 to 15 seconds at a time.
If this still doesn't work we can temporarily fit an electric in-line fuel pump similar to what a car has. Install this on the pickup line to the fuel filter housing